Autumn Winter 2017/18 by Edward Mongzar

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Our AW 17/18 collection revives an old story of handcrafted opulence merged with effortless style. The collection incorporates hand-woven fabrics and hand dyeing techniques to create a palette of black and warm seasonal colours that stay true to the mood of winter.

The faux fur is created using a traditional Naga yarn weaving technique using a hand loom.
Weaving in action

Meanwhile, the silhouettes are minimal with striking handcrafted details such as handwoven, handmade faux fur. The faux fur is created using a traditional Naga yarn weaving technique using a hand loom.
Each piece of the delicate faux fur is created over a period of seven days; small amounts of the fabric can be produced each day due to the intricacy of the Naga hand loom weaving method.  

Each piece of the delicate faux fur is created over a period of seven days
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The collection is a fusion of two age refined crafts and builds a bridge between the old, traditional heritage of Nagaland and the feminine elegance of Edward’s design aesthetic. With rich, soft and gentle silks, handwoven garments with elegant silhouettes and fine details, all made ethically, this collection truly embodies ethical luxury.

Brexit and the fashion industry by Edward Mongzar

I think it would be fair to say that many industries were shaken to the core by the Brexit vote early last Summer, however in no industry was the shock and worry more apparent than the fashion industry, where a poll by the BFC saw 90% of Designers state a preference for a Remain vote.

It’s understandable that so many felt that way when you consider the importance of exports, free movement of labour and the strong collaborations we share with our counterparts across Europe in the industry. However, now that Brexit is happening and we are finally beginning to learn small details of what the Government is aiming for in Brexit negotiations, we as an industry must look to the future and the possible opportunities that Brexit can offer us.

We have already seen some small silver linings to the vote; these could be signs of the opportunities we can make use of if we are willing. For example, the immediate plummet of the pound in the wake of the Brexit vote allowed for an increase in foreign spending in the fashion and luxury sectors, with stores like Harrods, Asos and others seeing marked rises in spending as tourists began to see the opportunity for bargain buys in London.

That is not to say that we should ignore the many possible perils of a Leave vote, such as the possible increase in manufacturing costs for British designers, many of whom source fabrics and have many aspects of their manufacturing and production carried out abroad. The rising cost for these brands may have to be offset by rising prices for consumers and this is something that we all should be aware and indeed cautious of. We should also ensure going forward, that we work to improve manufacturing capabilities within the UK to make sure these issues don’t cripple new designers.

We must also be wary to ensure that we continue the free flow of creative talent from all over the world in and out of Britain and ensure that designers continue to reap the benefits of access to an international market of trading and creativity.

The future is what we make it and if I’ve learnt anything about the fashion industry and those who keep its wheels spinning, it’s that they always pull through and find new, creative ways to seize opportunities under every circumstance. 

 

- Josh Leneveu

SS'17 Media Packs by Edward Mongzar

 
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 Hand marbled just like our SS’17 garments, our media packs are comprehensive and embody what our collection entails. The delicate swirls of the marble dye on the packs demonstrate the free-flowing and gentle silhouettes of our SS’17 pieces.

Folded flat and opening up into a mini briefcase, the pack is unique and pleasing on the eye. The media packs are in line with our belief in being a sustainable and ethical business and thus are completely handcrafted. Our media pack and everything within are created using recycled, pressed garment waste.

 

The packs provide an insight into our hand marble dyeing and its broad history throughout different areas of the World, our hand weaving technique and its history within tribal Nagaland and the vision and story of the label Edward Mongzar.

Knowing the fast pace of the fashion industry, our media packs also contain unique hand marble dyed day planners for easy schedule keeping. It also contains a flip note pad for writing down inspiration as it comes to you, which you can do knowing no trees have been destroyed, yet the note pad remains as beautiful as your inspiration. 

 

Photo Courtesy - Craftboat, India

 

Spring Summer '17 by Edward Mongzar

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Our Spring / Summer ’17 collection embodies the elegance, sophistication and ethereal sensations consistent with our design aesthetic. Working with hand marbled dying, we create truly unique and one of a kind pieces. Beautiful, gentle swirls and ripples dance on our garments. Each piece created by highly skilled artisans of the craft.

The fabrics were created using an old age weaving technique found only in Nagaland. Previously, this type of weave has only been used sparingly for traditional tribal garments. This collection is a success story born out of a passion to recreate old school opulence with a twist of contemporary sensuality.

BTS S/S 17 by Edward Mongzar

 

Photographer- Derek McCoy Menéndez
Model - The Twig- Model
MUA - Lottie Edmonds
Location - The Emporium, Yeovil, Somerset.

 

Our Hand Woven Fabrics by Edward Mongzar

 
Miss Chang one of our first weavers to join us, weaving her magic.

Miss Chang one of our first weavers to join us, weaving her magic.

Fabric for our pieces is created using the traditional handloom weaving technique of Nagaland, India. Woven on an indigenous back strap loom / loin loom, Naga women dexterously weave each thread, despite the painstaking process, taking days to create a very small garment. The loom is attached to the weaver using a back strap; the fabric is then meticulously hand woven using a large wooden frame.

Ethnically, the woven pieces comprise of designs varying in colour, composition and construction. The woven garments are an intrinsic feature of the Naga costume even to the modern day. There are 17 tribes in Nagaland and each shawl represents a respective Naga Tribe and status of the individual adorning the woven garment in terms of social standing and individual wealth.

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Of the multiple techniques of weaving, types of pattern and medleys of colour, the most dynamic technique is used for our garments. Hence, each small piece of a garment paints a visual amalgamation of cultural diversity, a sentimental re-validation of one's roots and a tactile approach to uplift and empower the age-old craft of handloom weaving. Its introduction to a contemporary market gives the time-worn practice a new lease of life.

 

To know more about our new project "The weavers Story" related to Hand weaving, please click here.

Marbling by Edward Mongzar

Opulent fabrics are used to create delicate pieces in our collections. With a smooth surface and tight weave, silk makes the perfect fabric for absorbing the medley of colours during the dyeing process. Marbling has origins deep set in the days of the T’ang dynasty of China, spreading widely to Japan, India, Iran and Turkey via the Silk Road. In Turkey, the technique was used to verify the authenticity of official documents during the time of the Turkish Empire. Historically, marble dyeing has been exclusive to paper. With the growing interest in marbling on fabric, Edward Mongzar has successfully brought the mediums of marbling and luxury fashion to life, with marble dyeing on luxury fabrics.

Hand Marbled Silk

Hand Marbled Silk

The practice, centuries old, involves dyeing our fabric in a large container of water, this water possessing a gelatinous texture. Dye is sprinkled gently upon the water’s surface, floating softly. Our fabric is then attentively settled onto this colourful surface, before being delicately lifted inch by inch out of the water. Resulting in authentic and original markings on each individual fabric; created by highly experienced artisans in one of the World’s most culturally rich cities, Jaipur. 

Marble Mist by Edward Mongzar

A successful woman once said that simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication. This is something that is encapsulated by our collection Marble Mist. With delicate marble dyed fabrics, smooth silk georgette and soft and free flowing garments, elegance is abound. The collection fosters an opulent and sexy air of confidence whilst still ensuring each design is still completely serene. Simple silhouettes, free flowing fabrics and mellow splashes of colour.

They are empowering and give her a feeling reminiscent of gently drifting off into a soft sleep or daydream.

Marble Mist embodies its namesake; each garment is soft and ethereal. They give the Edward Mongzar woman complete unrestraint and allow her femininity to be free. They are empowering and give her a feeling reminiscent of gently drifting off into a soft sleep or daydream.

The marbling technique used in this collection is a craft that has been perfected over many decades. Highly experienced artisans in the city of Jaipur, Rajasthan, meticulously construct unique and vibrant pieces using this antiquated method of dyeing.

Hand marbling on silk using recycled water.

Hand marbling on silk using recycled water.